Dark Colored Pictographs- Fall 2007 Isabella Area Solo Canoe Trip

In July 2007 I did most of the Hunter’s Island loop in Quetico. This was a solo trip of 161 miles in eleven days. The trip report I wrote, Quetico’s Trees, Rocks and Water: A Solo Journey, is posted on bwca.com.

http://www.bwca.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=forum.thread&threadId=50925&forumID=19&confID=1

When I was done with that trip I began thinking what other paddling adventure I wanted to do in the fall. The problem I faced when I was thinking on where I wanted to go was that we're in a drought and there was very little water in the rivers where I wanted to go.

The fall of 2007, in September and October, I decided to go back up to the Isabella area in Minnesota to do a short solo canoe trip. This area is in the Superior National Forest in Northeastern Minnesota. The areas where I paddled were just inside the BWCA and a small part just outside of it. I hoped to complete this trip in September, but I revised my initial plans once I arrive in the area in September so I went back in October to finish what I didn't accomplish on the first trip. I’ve mentioned before that I worked for the US Forest Service out of the Isabella Ranger District from 1980 to 1983 out of Isabella, Minnesota. Some of these areas where I went I had never been to in the past and some of the other areas I haven't been to in about 25 years.

On 09-05-07 I posted a message under the, Trip Planning Forum, on the bwca.com website, asking if anyone had paddled the Perent River recently and if so, what the water levels were like. Although I really didn’t expect a response because this river is not traveled by too many people due to the many portages in such a short distance, but I thought I would see if anyone had done it. Well, just as I thought I didn’t get a response.

On 09-11-07 I posted some tentative plans on the website after I decided to go to this area, since it had recently rained a significant amount in the area. I wanted to paddle the Perent River between Hog Creek and Isabella Lake. This river is not paddled too often due to about 12-13 portages in such a short distance. I’ve never been on the Perent River and this was one of the reasons for me going to this area. The second reason was to see the only known dark colored pictographs in Minnesota. These pictographs are along the Island River just outside of the BWCA.

These dark colored pictographs are unusual for several reasons. They are very high above the water without any ledge or handholds for someone to use when they were drawn.Therefore, a ladder of some sort had to be used, such as a tree or other item to climb. The symbols are several feet high and a black pigment was used to drawn them. One other reason they are unique is that these pictographs face north. All the other pictograph sites have some direct sunlight that shine on them during the day.

The following were my general tentative plans that I posted on the website:

Day 1: Island River to the SE (Not in the BWCA) to see the pictographs. I may or may not camp on the river.Day 2: Entering Hog Creek and paddle to Perent LakeDay 3: Perent River to Isabella Lake. I might see if I can find the old portage that goes to Ferne Lake. This portage is no longer maintained and I was aware some people haven’t found it lately. Ferne Lake is in the Fungus Lake Primitive Management area.Day 4: Isabella Lake to Quadqa LakeDay 5: Back outMy plan for Day 2 was to leave my Suburban in the parking lot of Isabella Lake and then riding my Mountain Bike approximately 25 miles to the start of my canoe trip at Hog Creek. On this trip I would be placing more emphasis on photography than covering a large amount of ground like most of my other solo canoe trips. I've never been on the Perent River and with the recent rains this was to time to do it. Some of the other areas where I would be paddling I haven’t been to in about 20 to 25 years.These were only tentative plans and things may change depending on the weather once I got to the area.

09-13-07 Thursday

My alarm went off at 0600 am. I wanted to be on the road by 0800 am. I made it! I was in my Suburban all packed up and heading north at 0746 am.

The sky was a hazy, blue color with a temperature of 62 degrees, but it was windy. The sky further to the north had a grayer haze to it. Traffic was light and after going 45 minutes the sky to the west became very dark. Rain was now coming my way. I continued to drive north through some areas where it had recently rained as the pavement was wet in front of me. It was raining in Hinckley when I got there. The temperature had dropped to 54 degrees.

It continued to rain on and off as I made my way north toward Duluth. I decided to call Char at the Isabella Work Station to see if she or someone else was going to be there when I arrived in the afternoon or if I would need to drive to Tofte to pick up my permit.

I arrived in Duluth at 1002 am. Last year I stopped at the Duluth Pack Store and shopped for 10 whole minutes. Let’s see how long I’m in there this year. I stayed a half hour. I was fortunate to be able to park on the street near the store. Someone was just pulling out of a parking spot when I arrived.

Usually when I stop in the store I buy some books. It was no different this time. I bought the new edition of the Snow Walker’s Companion by Garrett and Alexandra Conover and Indian Creek Chronicles by Peter Fromm.

When I got to Illgen Falls on the Baptism River I decided to stop and take a few photos of the falls. I made a few more stops along Highway One as I made my way to Isabella. I got to the Isabella Work Station at 1pm.

I stopped in at the warehouses in back of the compound. This one warehouse has now been turned into an office where they issue permits and an employee work area. I talked with Char who I have spoken to a couple times over the phone recently. I told her I used to work out of Isabella in the early 1980’s when it was the Ranger Station. I asked her about a couple of people who I knew back then.

During the drive up this morning I was trying to determine what I should actually do on this trip. The wind had been blowing very hard the entire drive up to Isabella. I’ve tentatively planned to paddle the Island River today, and then I would bicycle over to Hog Creek tomorrow to begin my canoe trip.

When I worked for the US Forest Service I worked as a Recreation Technician. I patrolled the dispersed camping sites within the Isabella Ranger District. Sometimes I would drive a big loop to some of the different areas that I would check during the day. I wanted to travel this loop today, but if I did that it wouldn’t leave me much time to visit the pictographs on the Island River and return today.

My other concern was what the water level would be between Perent Lake and Isabella Lake. If it was low it would be real bony, but it doesn’t appear I’m going to have a problem after driving through the forest today and seeing the water in some of the streams that are usually dry or very low at this time of year.

Well, I made up my mind and made of change to my original plans. I got the last permit for Isabella Lake for tomorrow, Friday, 09-14-07, so I could drive the loop today. Tomorrow I would enter Isabella Lake and paddle to the east toward Ferne Lake. Depending on the wind!

When I left Char at the Isabella Work Station I drove to the Little Isabella Campground further up Highway One and changed into my paddling clothes. I walked to the Little Isabella River where I have done some Brook Trout fishing in the past. The creek had more water in it than I ever have seen in the past.

Next I drove back through the town of Isabella to the dirt road that went east out of town. (Forest Road (FR) 172) When I worked for the Forest Service I knew this road being called the Dumbbell Lake Road. Maybe that was what all the Forest Service employees called it. Now I see a road sign and the sign says, “Wanless Road”. Back when I worked up here there were very few road signs. Most of them were the Forest Road number signs at the junctions on some of the main forest roads.

(While I’m writing in my journal at the parking lot of Isabella Lake, it’s 0837 pm and I just went in the tent because it started to rain)

While I drove east down the Wanless Road I stopped at several places along the road to take a few photos before reaching Divide Lake. Divide Lake is about 5 miles east of Isabella on the Wanless Road. Divide Lake gets its name because it’s on the Laurentian Divide. The Laurentian Divide separates the watershed of rivers that flow north to the Arctic Ocean from the watershed of the rivers that flow southeast through the Great Lakes to the Atlantic Ocean. The Laurentian Divide is also known as the Northern Divide.

http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/4/44/NorthAmericaDivides.gif

I remember camping here several times in the past before all the upgrades to the campsites. There are now three pay sites to choose from to camp.

Around the lake is a rolling two mile hiking trail that I walked a short distance on to get a feel for it. The portion I walked was very easy walking with good footing. I recall fishing for Rainbow trout in this lake and Hogback Lake further to the east. Both of these lakes were designated trout lakes and were stocked with trout. I don’t believe the lakes are stocked any longer.

Next stop was Hogback Lake about 7 miles from Divide Lake on the same road. Years ago I had walked the trails around these lakes, but today I just looked over the area. There have been changes to this parking area.

I left Hogback Lake and turned left to go north on County Road 7 to continue around the loop. I’ve never been to Wye Lake when I worked here in the 80’s, but there is now a portage trail to the lake. Wye Lake is near the junction of Co. Rd 7 and FR 369. I knew FR 369 as the Sawbill Landing Road. I walked the portage down to the lake and saw some large white-caps waves on the lake.

Afterwards I got back into my Suburban and continued on to Silver Island Lake. There is newer road to this lake now. This has always been a very popular fishing lake. That has to be the reason for this upgraded road to the lake.

Now I was on my way to Section 29 Lake off of FR 356. The campsites here have been upgraded. There are two maybe three camping sites with an outhouse. This was another popular fishing lake when I worked up here.

Instead of taking the forest roads the long way around to Isabella Lake from Section 29 Lake I jumped on the old railroad grade (FR 379) that would eventually parallel a portion of the Island River. It would come out about a mile south of Isabella Lake on the Tomahawk Rd (FR 377).

Once I got to Isabella Lake I grabbed my camera and tripod. I walked the west portion of the Pow Wow Hiking Trail to the foot bridge that goes over the Isabella River. This area is to the west of Isabella Lake. The trail head has also been re routed. Now it starts in the parking lot. I used to access the hiking trail from off the Tomahawk Road. The first portion of the Pow Wow trail used to be an old logging road. The alders are now covering the roadway from both sides of the road. I remember in the spring of 1981 my supervisor at the time and I walked north along the trail. Then we continued on the trail when it turned to the west at the first junction. We were checking some of the side trails off this part of the trail. We were keeping our eyes open for the possibility of finding some moose antler sheds. There was still some patchy snow on the ground, when I found a moose antler that was in good shape. We began looking around the immediate area for the other shed. Not too far away, Terry, found the matching antler shed. I still have this antler to this day, almost twenty-eight years later.

There were several cars parked in the Isabella Lake parking lot and all the BWCA permits for tomorrow are taken. There’s a campsite next to the Pow Wow trail on the west side of the portage that’s available in case I can’t find one tomorrow, depending on the wind direction. Isabella Lake is a fairly shallow lake so the waves on the lake can get quite large. I’ve seen some big waves on this lake in the past.

It was time to make camp. I decide to camp in the parking lot instead of going elsewhere. The parking area is very large. I set up my tent and cooked some spaghetti. For dessert I made some pudding.

After eating I walked the portage down to the lake. There really wasn’t anything too interesting to take any pictures of, but I took some anyways. It was getting dark out so I walked back up to the parking lot.

I looked at my watch when I got back to my tent and it was 0856 pm. I decided to get my maps out to see where I might head tomorrow.

09-14-07 Friday

When I got done looking at my maps last night I read some. I crawled into my sleeping bag wearing my wool long underwear bottoms, top and hat. I brought my old blue and orange sleeping bag that I bought from Eastern Mountain Sports (EMS Lob Pine) in 1978. This store used to be just west of Snelling Ave on County Road B2. Now that I think about it I believe the first Minnesota REI store was near by, around the corner on Snelling Ave just south of County Road B2.

This sleeping bag is now only good to be used as warm weather sleeping bag, but I did bring an older winter bag just in case. I bought a Merino Wool sleeping bag liner for this trip. Well, at first I was way too warm when I got into my sleeping bag. Sometime during the night I took off my poly pro socks, then my wool long underwear bottoms.

The temperature dropped significantly so I needed to put both the socks and bottoms back on. It continued to rain on and off all night long. The wind continued to blow hard and it sure was consistent. Even with putting my clothes back on I could feel the cold seeping through the sleeping bag.

I grabbed my winter bag that was already in the tent and pulled it over me like a blanket. I warmed up immediately. I was going to put on my fleece pants, but it was much quicker to throw the winter bag over me.

It was snowing at 0715 am. I don’t know when it actually started to snow, but I could hear the distinct sounds of snow hitting the sides of the tent when I woke. When I looked out of the tent I told myself that I was right, It was in fact snowing!

I put on my boots and went outside. It was nasty out. I checked out the latrine and took some photos of the snow. By the time I got back in the tent my hands were very cold. I found my fingerless wool gloves and put them on. I tried to go back to sleep because I was trying to prolong my misery due to the wind, snow and cold temperatures, but all I did was toss from one side to the other. This was unlike me to try to go back to sleep at this time in the morning, because once I’m up at a reasonable time I get up.

There really wasn’t any use in trying to get on the lake too early today because the wind was blowing so hard. If I got on the lake now all I would be doing is finding the first campsite and ride out the weather.

Well, I stayed in the tent until 0900 am. Finally I told myself, either get up or go home! I crawled out of my tent and there was a guy over by a small pickup truck. I went over to talk with him. He told me his name was Duane and he was from Faribault, Minnesota.

Duane told me this was his first solo trip with his Bell solo canoe. He had been out since last Saturday. Duane said the lake was real choppy and he had some problems negotiating the wind and waves coming back to the landing. Duane looked pretty cold from his short distance paddle that actually took him much longer with the weather.

I started coffee and began breakfast when Duane walked over to where I was cooking. Duane accepted my offer to have some coffee. We talked for about a half hour or so.

It didn’t look like the wind was going to let up at all. I just finished breakfast when two guys walked up the portage from the lake. One guy was from the Twin Cities and the other guy was from Two Harbors. They said they were out for a couple days and had done some fishing. They were camped on Boga Lake on the point. They said it was a nice site.

It was 1000 am now. I decided I would go get my canoe set up and head toward this camp site. Then tomorrow I could do a day trip into Ferne Lake.

The sky looked like it would start to clear up, then it would cloud back up, then snow hard for 5 to 10 minutes, clear up, get cloudy, snow. This would go on about 20 times.

While I was packing up and preparing my canoe I saw another two guys driving through the parking lot. I thought they were with the Forest Service, but I’m not to sure. They just looked at me, drove off and returned shortly. I was busy packing and I didn’t see them leave again, but when I looked to see where they were I couldn’t find them.

I was getting ready to portage my gear down to the lake when a mini van with a small trailer pulled in the parking lot. Inside was an adult male and female with three small children. They were from the Twin Cities. I asked them where they were headed and they said the campsite on Boga Lake. This was the same one I planned to go to after speaking with the two guys earlier. This couple asked me if this was where I was going to go, but I told them they could have the campsite. I told them it was vacant because two guys had just returned from camping at the site.

When I portaged some of my gear down to the lake there were some very large white caps. The strong wind was blowing from the northwest to a more northerly direction. I looked at the family of five with their two canoes and wondered how they were going to get to Boga Lake with the wind blowing the way it was. They didn’t appear to be dressed for this inclement weather.

When I spoke to the lady who was wearing blue jeans she commented on my Cabela’s Extreme Wear rain gear. She said that’s what they needed to be wearing. I agreed with her.

I went back up the portage trail to move my Suburban closer to the trail head and to grab the rest of my gear.

The family of five quickly had their canoe gear together and they were now on the water heading to the east. I couldn’t believe they were attempting to paddle in the big waves dressed in their minimal clothing in this weather. They would be getting the full brunt of the wind and waves if they attempted to get to the portage to Boga Lake. They headed east along the shore and were quickly out of my sight when they rounded a point land near this landing. If I had to guess this family made it to the first campsite on the right not far from the landing and stopped. I was actually nervous thinking what could happen to them in those waves.

I shoved off, but I didn’t note the time since another snow squall was passing and the wind intensified. I moved very slowly off to the west in the large waves. I thought to myself, "What the hell am I doing!" The snow was being blown hard, stinging my face and coating my glasses to where I couldn’t see.

All I could do now was cautiously paddle to the west keeping the canoe upright. There was a campsite about a half mile away. If I made it that far I was going to stop and reassess the situation. I made it to this campsite. I been on this site before, but I have never camped on it.

I parked my canoe on the sand beach, took some photos and walked along the shore to the west to the next point. When I looked further to the west around the small point that I was now standing on I could see the waves and they didn’t appear to be as bad as from where I just came. The shore to the north was now closer to this shore and it was taming the wind.

When I got back into my canoe I continued in a westerly direction. Eventually, I crossed the lake in a northwest direction to check on another campsite. It was a small site that faced to the south. There were enough open areas for three or four tents, though.

I stopped by another campsite to check it out. When I was done looking this campsite over, I went over into a couple of bays along the north shore and padded around for a couple hours looking the area over. When I got done with that I paddled to the west to the portage that crossed the Pow Wow Hiking Trail. This was in the same area that I walked to yesterday.

Next I paddled back to the east past the campsite I would eventually camp on. There was another campsite further east that I wanted to look over. There were some people camped there so I wasn’t able to check this site out. I turned around and came back to the campsite where I set up camp around 0300 pm.

Supper was chicken and venison with couscous and vanilla pudding. Yes, venison! I had dehydrated both chicken and venison. The chicken was pretty chewy so I decided to add some venison to it. I made some coffee afterwards while I sat back on my therm-a- rest chair. I had the back of the chair up against a large rock while snacking on some gorp while writing in my journal.

The weather hasn’t been all that good, so I’ve been wearing my rain gear the entire day. Actually I took the jacket off for awhile, but I put it back on about a half hour ago as well as some light weight polypro gloves. It’s cool out while sitting still. It’s 0628 pm and I can feel the temperature slowly dropping. The wind is still blowing more from the NW, but I’m sheltered by the trees on this campsite.

I’m waiting for the sun to go down, so I can hopefully get some photos. Someone had left some smaller pieces of wood by the fire grate. I haven’t had a fire in a while so maybe I’ll have one tonight.

Earlier, the family of five that I saw at the landing said the winds were supposed to die down, but I didn’t ask them when.

The way the weather has been I’m glad I changed my plans yesterday, because it wouldn’t have been too fun biking the 25 miles to Hog Creek today.

Isabella Lake is a large shallow lake that is surrounded by mostly cedars, black spruce, balsam and a few birches.

The time is now 0635 pm. I’m going to stop writing now to make some more coffee and walk around a little to get the blood flowing to warm me up. I’m fine; its just sitting around that I get cool as the temperature continues to go down.

09-15-07 Saturday

47.804233
-91.422150
Elevation: 1558 feet

I’m at a campsite along the Isabella River.

Last night the wind did die down. I also made a fire, the first time in a long time. I started the fire at about dark and I kept it going until about 9 pm.

It was cool enough last night to enjoy having the fire. I also took a few photos of it. There was at least one other group having a fire on Isabella Lake last night as I could see the glow off to the east.

Last night I put on my thin polypro gloves in addition to my hat when I went to bed. Sometime during the night, maybe around 3 to 4 am, I was cold. I broke out my fleece jacket and long pants. I put the fleece pants on and just threw the jacket over my head. I didn’t bring my winter bag that I used last night as a blanket.

My heavier wool socks weren’t in the stuff sack with my fleece so I just put on my thin wool socks. Everything was now warm except my feet, they were still cold. I know I should have just taken the time to find the heavier wool socks, but no!

Well, I opened my eyes and it was day light out. I looked at my watch and I believe it said it was 0709 am. I jumped out of the sleeping bag and went outside.

The sun was already over the tree tops, but I still got some photos of the steam coming off the water. The lake was perfectly calm and I began to feel the warmth of the sun. I continued to take photos for the next half hour. There was frost on the bottom of my canoe that I was able to get some photos of as well.

While I made breakfast I began breaking down my camp although I was taking my time.I didn’t have any long distance to travel today.

I was paddling to my first portage of the day that was less than 5 minutes away at 0955 am. I continued to take some more photos of this area even though I took several photos when I walked over here on Thursday.

On Thursday and today, Saturday, I walked some more of the Pow Wow Hiking Trail. I remember walking this section of the trail in the early 1980’s and it was very open, but now the alder and other brush have encroached upon the trail.

All the portages today were easy. Most of them were fairly flat. There were a couple steep inclines, but the footing was good. I took my time going down the river today. I believe I took some photos at each portage.

Lunch was at a campsite where the Island River comes out into the Isabella River, I stopped to check the condition of the campsite and since it was so 1145 am I decided to break out the food.

While I was sitting back on the rock at the campsite after about a half hour I saw some people upstream at the last portage. They were coming my way so I hurried up and put my food back in the pack and headed down to the next 130 rod portage.

My plans were to camp on Quadga Lake. Since I let the family of five take the campsite on Boga Lake yesterday, I sure didn’t want to compete with anyone going into Quadga Lake today.

While I’m writing this at 0808 pm the beavers are out working on the river.

When I got to the 130 rod portage I took my large pack, water bottles and camera case across the trail. This was an easy portage. There was a short board walk that was in good shape with one section of it being a bridge.

The time now is 0823 pm. I stopped writing in my journal to view the sky and listen to the sounds- the beavers are still working. It’s a clear night, but right now it’s not as cold as last night, although it could get colder.

I’m in the tent now. I put on my fleece over my long underwear. I’m going to start with them on. I hope I’m not going to be too warm at the start.

Now back to the 130 rod portage. I started walking back across the portage when I came across two children, another smaller child, a mom and finally a dad carrying their canoe. When I asked the first boy how far they were going today, he said they were only doing a day trip.

I walked my canoe and pack back across the portage and this family were taking a break and were taking some family movies.

Andy and Pam said they were from Hudson, Wisconsin. They were just going down to Rice Lake today before turning around and heading back out. They have been up in the area since Thursday night and have been taking day trips. They told me they never have been on the Isabella River. I don’t recall them saying if they have been Isabella Lake or not.

I continued down the river where the map showed a portage, but there was no reason for it. Also there are three portages fairly close to the portage that goes to Quadga Lake and my map shows two.

There are some huge White Pines in this area. I walked my first load across the portage to Quadga Lake. When I got to Quadga Lake I thought I could see a tent or something at the campsite where I planned to spend the night. I got out my binoculars for a look. Indeed, it was a tent and I then saw something red off the left of the tent. I’m not sure what the red thing was, but I wasn’t going any further.

This was the site I wanted to camp on so instead of checking out any others on the lake I hauled my stuff back to the beginning of the portage. There was a campsite that I passed a mile or so before this portage that I had checked out so I headed back to it.
I paddled back upstream to the campsite. I arrived at 0409 pm. It was still warm out so I took off my footwear and socks and allowed them to dry.

I rested some before making supper, then rested some more. When I had rested enough I went to the river and filtered some water then straightened up camp.

There wasn’t much of a sunset tonight. I only took a few photos before starting to write in my journal.

I’m still not sure of my plans for tomorrow. Possibly camping where I had lunch today on the Isabella River at the Island River, but it’s only 5 miles away. I would be getting to the campsite early in the day so I would be just sitting around the campsite for most of the day. Then Monday would be a real long day when I go see the pictographs on the Island River.

What I might do instead is paddle out by way of the Island River to the Tomahawk Road, then walk back to my Suburban. I could camp in the area then drive to the closest put-in on the Island River, then paddle up the Island River to the pictographs on Monday.

I’ll have to check my maps. It’s now 0845 pm. I have no more to say or at least I can’t think of anything right now…except, this area is more typical of the boreal forest, balsam fir, jack pine, black spruce and I know there are pockets of Tamarack.

09-16-07 Sunday

There was no need for a fire last night. It was a nice fall evening. Good thing I didn’t need a fire because my tent was pretty close to the fire grate.

The last two nights I got cold the last couple hours just before daybreak. Last night I was going to out smart myself as I thought it was going to get cold, since it was a clear night. So I put on my heavy fleece top and bottoms as well as my heavy wool socks. Well, that didn’t work out as planned. I needed to take off my fleece bottoms because I was way too warm.

When I woke up a couple times last night I could hear a slight breeze blowing through the tree tops. It must have been from the north because there were no ripples on the surface of the water.

I woke up at 0600 am but I didn’t crawl out of my tent until 0638 am. I knew I wouldn’t be able to sleep any longer, but I laid there until it was time to go take some photos of the sunrise. I was prepared to take some, but the sunrise wasn’t spectacular.

My campsite is a south facing site. The river in front of me goes basically south to north, but right in front of the campsite the rivers turns to the west. This campsite is on the outside bend of the river. The sun didn’t begin to shine on the trees along west shore until 0744 am.

While cooking breakfast a Spruce Grouse flew up behind me in one of the trees in camp. I attempted to get some photos of the grouse, but most of the photos captured mostly tree branches and very little of the bird.

I still haven’t made up my mind on how far I was going to travel today. If I camp where I had lunch yesterday, but then tomorrow would be a much longer day. I still want to see the pictographs on the Island River.

When I looked at the map last night it looked to be about 10 miles to the pictographs from this campsite, then another 4 miles back to the Island River landing off the Tomahawk Road, and finally about a mile walk back to my Suburban.

Another possibility would be to camp somewhere along the Island River outside of the BWCA.
Well, I’ll begin paddling and I’ll make some decisions based upon what time I get to the junction of the Isabella River and Island River. I was headed upstream at 0855 am. The sun was out and I could now feel the warmth of the morning sun. The current really wasn’t that noticeable until I stopped paddling, then I began to float downstream. There were some areas of the river where the current was slightly stronger.

It’s a little too early in the season for the Tamaracks to be turning color so there wasn’t much in the way of color change in the coniferous forest right now.

When I was at my campsite it was in the shade and it was still a little cool so I left long underwear on underneath my North Face nylon pants. I had a long sleeve polypro top over my cool-max t-shirt. My fleece top came off as soon as I started paddling.

The sun continued to beat down on me and I don’t have any sunscreen. When I started two days ago it was in the 20’s, snowing with strong winds.

When I got to the area of Rice Lake I paddled through all the standing Wild Rice before reaching the downstream side of the 130 rod portage. There are many old growth Northern White Cedars here at this portage. When I carried all my gear across the portage I decide to break for lunch since it was now 1130 am. I sat at the end of the portage sweating in the sun, so I grabbed my PFD and walked back along the trail in get out of the sun. The sun was feeling very hot on my face plus I was beginning to overheat since I still had my long underpants on.

After lunch I continued paddling to the junction of the Island River with the Isabella River. I decided to continue on and not stop at the campsite where I had lunch yesterday. I needed a change of scenery so I paddled up the Island River. There were two short portages before I reached the area where the river widens up, about a mile from the BWCA entry point.

This area was choked with standing Wild Rice that was past the picking phase. I probably had to paddle about a half mile in the Wild Rice before I came to a narrow channe leading the way up the river. There was a wooden Bridge at the Tomahawk Road that I needed to paddle underneath before I pulled over at the landing at the BWCA entry point of the Island River.

There was a truck parked in the lot and a canoe further down. It didn’t look like the canoe belongs with the truck.

It was still very warm out at this point. It was early enough in the afternoon to paddle the 4 to 5 miles to the pictographs and then paddle the same distance back and still walk the mile back to my Suburban. It was going to be a long day, but it’s wasn’t going to get any shorter thinking about it.

Off I went paddling upstream in search of the Island River pictographs. The Wild Rice was growing up along each shore, but there was a decent channel down the middle to paddle. About half way down to the next portage I beached my canoe right on top of a large round rock. Based upon all the paint marks on the rock I’m obviously not the first one to hit this rock that is smack dab in the middle of the river. With the brackish water I never even saw it.

I had to step out of my canoe onto the rock with one foot while the other foot stayed in the canoe while pushing myself free.

I arrived at the first set of rapids and the water was really flowing due to all the recent heavy rains. The water normally wouldn’t be flowing this fast at this time of the year. I looked for an obvious portage, but I sure didn’t see one. There wasn’t any well worn portage like those inside the BWCA.

The shore was scattered with large and medium size boulders. There was no easy landing and the river appeared to be deep. Looking all along the shore I finally saw what looked to be a possible area. It would be very tricky to get out on the slippery rocks, unload my canoe, and then get my gear to solid ground without having my canoe swept down the current.

If I could accomplish this feat I could become a circus performer. I stuck my paddle in the water and confirmed that the water was deep. I continued to scour the area for a better place, but there weren’t any better options. I did see another area just downstream where I would be able to wedge my canoe between the rocks, but I still had the same problem getting everything over the rocks to the rocks on shore where there was no water.

I made it, but it sure wasn’t pretty. There was no way I could lift up my canoe from where I had it wedged. I had to drag the canoe across the tops of all the sharp and round top boulders to the rocky, brushy shore. The epoxy against the rocks didn’t sound like it was doing any good, but there was nothing else I could do.

I didn’t like the feeling I was getting at this portage. I can’t really explain it. I walked the rocky, brushing trail to see if it actually came out somewhere. I would have a tough time portaging it with my gear. I thought to myself that I have another 8 miles to paddle in this heat. I still had my long underwear on. This area is an accident looking to happen. If this was the only way to get to the pictographs I would have just dealt with it, but I knew there was another access to the pictographs that would be easier.

I stumbled back to my canoe and gear to see if there was another place that was an easier place to get my canoe back in the river. I was walking on top of the rocks in the river when I slipped and fell hard on my butt on a rock while my left hand broke my fall. I am lucky I didn’t break my ring finger on my left hand. I ended up in the water up to my crotch. That was too close to getting hurt.

Now I was pushing my canoe back across the same rocks back to the water that I had pulled it across earlier. I needed to try and get the stern in the water to load the canoe with my camera case, water bottlers and my large pack. I continued to push my canoe across the rocks as the epoxy across the rocks sound grew louder. I held onto the canoe as the stern hit the water preventing it from flipping over with some of my gear inside. I balanced on the top of another slippery rock while I was able to drop my last pack in the bow. I made it off the rocks without too much more trouble.

Back at the Island River landing I hid my pelican case with my camera gear in the weeds while leaving my two packs in my canoe. I took my large camera and water bottle while I walked back to my Suburban that was parked in the parking lot of Isabella Lake a mile away. I walked back at a fast pace while taking a few photos along the Tomahawk Road.

My Suburban was where I had left it and it was still intact. I drove back to the landing where my canoe was and threw my gear in the Suburban. I tied the canoe to the top and off I went to the next put-in. The landing is down the railroad grade road that now is open to the public. When I worked with the Forest Service in the early 1980’s this road was blocked off at both ends with a sturdy gate that was always locked.

A short distance down this road is the canoe landing. This put in will put me in the wide part of the river past the portage where I just had so many problems. This area of the river is completely covered with Wild Rice until I got to the main channel.

I hastily threw my small pack that contained some water, food, my rain gear, some warm clothes just in case something happened. I started toward the pictographs at 0335 pm and I should be there in about an hour. What I forgot was my yoke. I didn’t think there were anymore portages, but I was wrong.

The one map that I had out navigating with didn’t show this section of the river on it. The other map when I needed it had the word, portage, written in small print. There wasn’t any red line marking the portage like my other maps. When I rounded a bend I could hear the sound of rushing water from the rapids and I could see the foam floating on top of the water from being agitated.

The first thing I noticed when I got to the take out was that it was flat and sandy. That’s good news! It didn’t appear from this end that it was going to be anything like the previous portage. I flipped my canoe up and rested the seat on top of my head since I didn’t have my portage yoke. No problem this portage was flat, easy and about 25 to 30 rods long.

Once I got to the upstream side of the portage I put my canoe in the water and I began my quest to check the rocks along the north side of the river for the first set of pictographs that were supposed to be on a rock in the river. When I got to the dark colored pictographs I realized I should have been looking for the rock along the south shore. I guess I wasn’t thinking clearly.

Anyways, I saw the rock face up ahead where I knew the pictographs were going to be. I got my camera out and began taking some photos of this impressive rock face. I slowly paddled upstream looking for the pictographs. There they were! They appeared faded.
I saw some sort of animal with antlers on the right. There was a human like figure with its arms down and fingers spread.

To the left of the human like figure was the number 3 that appeared to be scratched or etched into the stone. Then I saw what appeared to be lines that were crossing at right angles to one another. I continued to take some photos these the dark colored pictographs.

When I was done looking at these pictographs I paddled downstream along the south shore in the area where first set of pictographs should be, but I didn’t see them. From everything I read these pictographs on the rock in the river weren’t in good shape. Maybe they were covered with down trees or maybe they were no longer visible. I just don’t know.

I made it back to the flat, easy portage. When I went across the first time I stopped at the campsite at the downstream side of the portage and saw that there were some names craved into a half log used as a seat. This time I got my camera out and took some photos of this “Visitor Log” that had several names craved into the log dated 5/28/2003.

I continued paddling back the way I had come and made it back to the landing at 0635 pm. It was a long day with all the heat, long underwear and all. Once the canoe was secured to the top of my Suburban I quickly threw the packs in the Suburban.

Should I throw up my tent somewhere or should I just drive home. After washing my face I decided to drive to Ely then head home. I drove the Tomahawk Road to the west to Highway One. The sun was at such a low angle that I needed to slow down to a crawl several times because the sun was temporarily blinding me. There were sections of the road where the recent heavy rains had washed portions of it away.

The first thing I did when I got to Ely was to stop at the Dairy Queen for my usual meal after a BWCA canoe trip. I’ve written about this in other trip reports. My usual after a BWCA canoe trip Dairy Queen meal is a double hamburger with mustard and fries. I was still hungry so I drove down to the Northern Grounds restaurant and picked up two large coffees with a slice of rhubarb and strawberry pie.

I made one other quick stop to Piragis’s. I couldn’t stay inside the building for too long because it seemed usually hot inside, so I picked up one book and quickly left.

I left Ely for home at 0745 pm and pulled into my driveway at 1140 pm.

In June I picked up some new rain gear because I needed to replace my old rain jacket that I’ve had for several years. I picked up a Cabela’s Gore-tex Guide Wear Jacket and bibs that I brought along for this trip. It worked well for this type of trip, but I wouldn’t bring it along for every trip.

A few days before this canoe trip this area of the Superior National Forest received anywhere from 3 to 11 inches of rain bringing the water levels back up.

At Home

When I got home I checked my reference books again about the red pictographs that have been documented on a rock in the Island River, the ones I couldn’t locate.

In the book, Indian Rock Paintings of the Great Lakes by Selwyn Dewdney and Kenneth Kidd, 2nd Edition, it has the following information. In either 1958 or 1959, Bill Trygg, of Ely, took Selwyn Dewdney and his wife to the Island River to the pictographs that were on the “imposing block of Gabbro”. Selwyn writes, “we found a small cross, and a barely discernible handprint.” Apparently Selwyn Dewdney never saw the dark colored pictographs that are about a third of a mile away from the ones on the “block of Gabbro” because they aren’t referenced in his book. The dark colored pictographs were reported to the Forest Service in 1974.

Michael Furtman’s book, Magic on the Rock: canoe country pictographs, repeats the information that was given to him from the US Forest Service. It doesn’t appear Micheal Furtman went to see these pictograph.

I also made some phones calls to Walt Okstad, the Historian/Heritage Program Manager with the US Forest Service about the pictograph site on the river and about what I saw on the rock face of the dark colored pictographs. I also sent Walt some photos for their records. I met Walt back in 1980 when he was part of the US Forest Service archaeological dig at the McDougal campground off Highway One within the Isabella Ranger District. This is also known as the Misiano site. Tom Misiano was the Assistant District Ranger when I worked in Isabella.

Here is what Walt wrote to me about we discussed.

“I can see what your looking at (ladder like structure looks raised, 3 like thing looks more like a reduction) , but even after applying some various Photoshop enhancements I can't tell for sure if they are natural or not. As we discussed briefly earlier, a large part of the charm with pictographs is your guess is as good as anyone else’s. The photos we have of the site show the pictograph well but the adjacent area doesn't show up well enough to compare (pre-digital). Thanks for sharing the photos.”
**********************************************
Walter Okstad
Historian/Heritage Program Manager
Superior National Forest


I also had contact with the Minnesota Office of the State Archaeologist about these pictographs. Here is my correspondence with them.


09-17-2007
Subject: Island River Pictograph 21LA0037
Hello,

My name is Chuck Ryan. I was just at the pictographs on the Island River outside of the BWCA on 09-16-07. I took several photos. I am attaching one of the photos that show what appears to be the number 3 etched in the rock to the left of the human like figure. Is that in fact the number 3 or what?

I’m sure that it wasn’t originally there and I didn’t know if anyone in your office new about it or not or possibility the time frame when it was done. If someone would get back to me I would appreciate it.

Thank you in advance.

Chuck Ryan


Wednesday, September 19, 2007 Subject: RE: Island River Pictograph 21LA0037

Mr. Ryan

Thank you for your concern.

I checked our files for that site and the images from a few years ago show the same pattern you saw there recently. I've shown your photo to a number of people here and the consensus is that while it certainly appears to be a 3 that it is likely shading of the rock surface or lichens. I have to add that none of us have actually been out there to see it. The similar color and patterning to the horizontal components of the "3" seem to also be present on the rock surface directly below the figure of concern, there is also some staining coming down from above. They could also be part of some other figure, of file indicates that there are also a cross, two handprints and a canoe depicted here. What is visible can be affected by the angle and intensity of the light and the amount of humidity at any given time. This is a unique set of glyphs in that they are done in a dark pigment.

Bruce

Bruce Koenen
Research Archaeologist
Office of the State Archaeologist
Fort Snelling History Center
St. Paul, MN 55111


Wed 9/19/2007 Subject: RE: Island River Pictograph 21LA0037
Bruce,

Thanks for getting back to me about the Island River Pictographs. I have a few more questions if you have the time.

Since I had sent you guys the one picture (I took several) I had notice something else that I couldn’t find any documentation on.

I’ll have to review the photo I sent you, but I will sent one or two more that may show what I’m about to describe better.

To the left of the area that appears to be a 3 there appears to be raised vertical and horizontal lines that are fairly uniform. I thought if there were only vertical lines it could be contributed to something that was dripping down, but there are two or three horizontal lines that couldn’t be from dripping. What do you think this is from?

In your e-mail you wrote,”They could also be part of some other figure, (our) files indicate that there are also a cross, two handprints and a canoe depicted here.”

I have Michael Furtman’s, Magic on the Rocks, and he describes two separate sites. He describes the pictographs of the area that I took the photos and sent to you as this “display is on a dark cliff, beneath a deep overhang. It has a human figure in the “arms down”, with fingers spread. To its right is a caribou or other deer-like animal with prominent antlers that sprout from the center of the head like fountain. Perhaps a large dark figure is to the right of the animal. To the left of the human figure, pecked or scratched into the rock, are some letters or numerals.”

There is another display Furtman writes, “The Forest Service reports to me that the drawings on the rock in the river are bright red. Dewdney reports a small cross, and a barely discernible hand print ‘on an imposing block of gabbro.”

I’m wondering if your records of these two sites are grouped as one since there is only one site number, 21LA0037. In Mark J. Dudzik’s, Visions In Stone: The Rock Art Of Minnesota, he states, “In other instances, multiple sites have been reported as a single entry and have been given a single site number.”

I’m just trying to clarify if there are more paintings on the photo I sent you or are those other ones you describe on the rock that is somewhere in the river close to this site with the human like figure and the animal with antlers?

Do you have a photo of the rock in the river with these other drawing? If so, when was it taken? Do you know anyone who may have recently seen this rock with the other glyphs and if they are still even present?

I spent some time looking for the rock but I couldn’t find it or I didn’t see the glyps on the rock.

I talked with Walt Okstad, Forest Service Archaeologist, and he had the same information that was in Furtman’s book about the rock in the river and that Dewdney observe those glyphs but not the ones on the rock face.

I’m just trying to find out about those lines to the left of the 3 like image and if the glyphs you describe (cross, hand prints and canoe) are on the rock and if they are still present.

If had a better description where this rock is or a photo of the rock then I’m pretty sure I would be able to find it. I would like to go back and spend some more time looking for the rock if the glyphs are still there once I get some more information.

I appreciate you taking the time to read my e-mail and I thank you in advance for any more information you may have on these two sites.

Chuck Ryan



09-21-2007

Subject: RE: Island River Pictograph 21LA0037

Chuck,

I'm not going to be able to give you really good answers to most of your questions, since it sounds like you have access to the same information I have and you have the advantage of actually having been up there and I haven't.

As to the raised grid pattern you noticed. I saw it on the photo you sent. It caught my attention, but I thought it might have been scratched into the rock, but now you say they are raised lines. Raised lines would suggest differential weathering of the rock surface, meaning they might be old cracks in the rock that were filled with another harder material that is more resistant to weathering. The rocks in that area have a complicated geologic history.

Actually you helped me clear up the issue of whether or not the additional glyphs I mentioned were in this panel or not. I noticed that the information I had suggested they were red in color as you say and the figures you photographed were not. I agree with your suggestion that they are two separate groups combined in a single number as Mark had noted. I do not even have a drawing showing how those red glyphs might be arranged or what their relationship might be to those you have already located. Often times the information we have in our files is based on informant reports that have come from outside sources to the Forest Service and have never been officially documented or confirmed and the locations may be inaccurate, but they are the best we have for now. The additional information and picture you have provided will be added to our files to help others in the future who are asking the same questions and also allow us to document the condition of the site at the present time.

Also this site is on National Forest Land and is not under our jurisdiction since it is federal property. The forest service usually has the most up to date and accurate information on their sites.

Hope this helps let me know if you have other questions

bruce

Office of the State Archaeologist
Fort Snelling History Center
St. Paul, MN 55111


I decided I needed to go back up north to see if I could find the red pictographs on the rock in the river. I also wanted to look at the dark colored pictographs again after reviewing the information I had learned about the site.

The other reason for going back up to the area was because I still haven’t paddle the Perent River, so I have some unfinished business to take care of.

10-04-07 Thursday

My alarm went off at 0600 am this morning. I was already packed so all I had to do was have my oatmeal and make some coffee. I was on the road at 0729 am. Traffic was really bad this morning. I tried getting on Highway 610 off Winnetka Avenue, but traffic was all backed up. I made a u-turn and made my way further to the west and eventually got on Highway 610 off Zane Av N. It took me about a half hour to get out of Brooklyn Park.

It was 62 degrees out when I left home and breezy. There were hazy blue skies to the north, but within and hour and a half the skies were now completely cloudy.

The trees were changing colors. The yellows were nice and bright. The temperature had gone up a couple degrees by the time I drove through Duluth, MN. I stopped at the Holiday Gas in Two Harbors and got some gas for the Suburban. Past Beaver Bay, along the north shore, the deciduous trees were past their peak, but they still looked good. The tamaracks were turning a bright yellow color.

I drove down to the warehouse at the Isabella Work Station where the BWCA permits can be picked although I didn’t need to get one this time. All I would need were some day use permits. The office was closed for the season so I walked to the “employee only” door of the same warehouse. There were three Forest Service employees sitting at a table working. There were two guys and a gal. When I asked them about another employee who usually worked out of Isabella they told me he was working out of Tofte for the winter.

These three employees didn’t work out of Isabella, either. They were in the area working on other projects. The guy who did most of the talking worked out of Tofte on the fire crew. The female worked out of the Aurora District and the other guy worked in fisheries, but I don’t know what Ranger District. I stopped in for only about 5 minutes before heading on my way.

When I drove back through the town of Isabella I saw someone who was putting a metal roof on the old Olga’s Bar that had burned down.

I drove down the three quarter mile access road to Eighteen Lake. There was another person coming out. I spoke to him briefly. He told me he wasn’t camped there, but there was someone else who was camping. It looked like this person was doing some hunting but he didn’t say if it was for grouse or moose.

When I drove down to the lake there was a Hot Tent made by Cabela’s that was set up. There wasn’t anyone around. They must have been out hunting. Most likely these guys were moose hunting.

After taking some photos near the lake I headed north to the Island River. There was a truck with a trailer parked in the lot. I wanted to see who was in the lot before I turned around and went back to the railroad grade road. If I recall I think I pulled in around 1250 pm.

I got my canoe down off my Suburban and got my gear ready to go. I was now paddling upstream on the Island River at 0153 pm. There was a northwest wind. The sun began to come out when I was in Isabella. When the sun hit the yellow tamaracks it made then “pop”. The sun really brought out the colors in the trees.

I wasn’t sure of my plans so I checked on a campsite that was a short distance downstream of the first portage. It would be fine it I wanted to use it.

When I got back on the water after the portage I immediately began looking for the “imposing block of Gabbro” for the pictographs. I searched the entire south shore, but found nothing. It’s possible the rock was covered with lichen, I just don’t know. Maybe if I knew exactly which rock maybe the pictographs could be seen.

I don’t think that I will ever look for these pictographs again unless I know exactly which rock to look for. When I attempted to find out more information about these pictographs nobody from the Forest Service that I spoke to had been to this area. I even spoke to some employees at the Tofte Ranger Station, but nobody I spoke to had been to the area.

There was a red glob on the west facing portion of the rock face that I hadn’t seen on the last trip. I don’t know if these are red ochre smudges or not. There isn’t any documentation of these if these were some type of pictograph. This red glob is on the west side of the rock face and the dark colored one are on the north facing side of this rock. After taken some photos of the red glob, I took several more of the dark colored pictographs on the north face. I looked further at the ladder like detail and I came to the conclusion that these aren’t raised lines. What looks like the number three is some material falling away from the rock and it just so happens to look like the number three.

When I was done with taking photos of this area, I paddled upstream a short distance to a campsite on the Island River that is actually in the BWCA. It’s not a bad site and it doesn’t appear to get that much use. Although I didn’t look around that much I don’t recall seeing a tent pad, Maybe it was down the trail that I started to follow or it was a trail to the latrine, I didn’t go to far because there were a couple large jack pine lying across the trail and at the back of the campsite. I turned around and walked back to my canoe.

After back tracking past the dark colored pictographs, I swung back toward the south shore to check the rocks again for the other set of red pictographs. Again, I didn’t see anything. Next it was back across the 25 to 30 rod portage. Now I had to make a decision on if I wanted to camp at the campsite on the river or go back to my Suburban and camping at the Isabella Lake parking lot again. It would save me time in the morning if I camped in the parking lot.

I couldn’t make up my mind at first. I decided to camp at the river campsite, then I changed my mind and headed back to the landing, then I changed my mind again. I got to the river site and I got all my gear out of the canoe at 0507 pm. When I looked at the tent pad I decided I really didn’t like it. The real reason I probably didn’t like it was I knew I could save an hour and a half tomorrow if I paddled out tonight. Tomorrow I was going to ride my Mountain Bike to Hog Creek. I was back in my canoe heading back to the Island River landing at 0517 pm.

It took me only 33 minutes to get back to my Suburban. Once again I was throwing my gear inside and putting the canoe on the rack. Now it was time to pour myself a cup of coffee from my thermos while I drove off toward Isabella Lake at 0600 pm.

When I got to the parking lot of Isabella Lake I didn’t waste any time setting up my tent, etc. For dinner I made venison spaghetti, French Vanilla pudding and some coffee.

There was one other vehicle in the lot when I pulled in. Then around 7 pm a truck with a 4-wheeler in the back of it drove through the lot and back out. When I finished dinner I began to write in my journal. I stopped writing about 0815 pm to start reading a book that I brought, Tipis, Tepees, Teepees-History and Design of the Cloth Tipi, by Linda A. Holley.